Saturday, April 16, 2011

With the climbing that's what, 31k?

From all the hiking I've been doing since arrival, my New-New Balance shoes look like they're 5 years old. The new bike I got about a month ago is filthy with dust and scrapes. I love them both. The 3 part goal I set for myself regarding JH was completed today. I got up on time, pulled a back muscle reaching for the alarm (not kidding), had espresso and read Salem's Lot while I waited for the near overdose of South African Excedrin to kick in. When I could stand up, I surveyed my ankles (they've been swollen this week) and seeing they were ok, set out for JH Park Reserve with my insect net in it's holster.

An hour and 7k's later (above is a glimpse of the early parts of the bike ride up) I arrived at the gates and rested for a while, as the next leg of the journey was a 5k sand/rock jeep trail with dishumourous inclines. You can hear me gasping for air in this video, not long after starting the jeep trail (it starts off with a nasty little hill).


I did that part in an hour, too, then tied my bike up at a pole with info leading to the waterfall hikes. Here are some pictures of the 6.4km hike, progressing as they do on the hike. I know it's a lot of pictures, and some pretty nerdy, but it's the first time I've been able to do this hike on my own, and to be able to take my time.
This view to my left, while hiking is of the many dead proteas that one sees hiking all over the area. When fires come through, they burn, but retain their structure- often times re-sprouting new growth from the base. Sometimes though you just get a sea of dead protea. Here also is a little lizzard I caught with my multi-functional net. He was surprisingly accommodating. No, he didn't end up in a jar.


Here is where the landscape starts to shift from riparian to almost forest- with lots of overhang and boulders. You hike into a series of small waterfalls that now are only trickles with small pools, but in a few months it will be a pretty healthy river, I'm told. The video is when I've rock hopped up the river as far as you can go---horizontally. That's when I started to climb up the rocks.

Perspective is hard in these pictures but trust me, gravity and sharp edges were very much on my mind. I was being VERY careful, and was VERY thankful that I've gotten strong enough to hang onto tree branches and swing from rock to rock (for real). The last time I did this, I slid down a rock to land on a little platform. In these situations, the landings aren't the problem, it's the momentum. I hit the ground and of course kept going, my center of gravity beyond my feet and almost went over the side. That might have been the scariest moment of my life, but obviously I didn't die. On this trip, I tossed my bag down first and maneuvered a little differently to avoid a similar situation. The picture (the one with my knees) is right before my mini descent, as I didn't know if I'd make it or not. This way, I figured, there'd be a very appropriate final picture of me, seconds before my death. There were some cool galls up there that I sampled and will bust open later, too.

I reached the fabled top pool after, I think something like 20 minutes? I lost my net en route (don't worry, I collected it on the way back) so alas, though I saw damselflies (maybe antlions, actually, I didn't get a good look at the antenna), I didn't get any. Sorry for the awkward picture, but I had to race to that rock before the auto-timer took the picture.
There were lots of frogs again, and just as many tadpoles, but this time I took note more of the lichens:


After that little rest, pestering the wildlife, I carefully climbed down the rocks, thanking the trees for being as strong as they were. Back down the 6.4k trail, the 5k back to the gates followed by the 7k back to Concordia (my housing). All in all, it was about 7 hours and 20 minutes and a great day.

Yesterday a fire started on the mountain- not Stellenbosch Mountain, one of the other ones in the chain that I can't recall the name of (note that the listed blog dates are just the dates I started the blog, not the date I actually published it). It's a little more south and east. I have no idea if it was a planned burn or what, but the winds were really strong that day, so any spark in that dry environment would have blown a great distance. It burned into the night, and the next day it was still smoking when the sun went down.

Last week I went to my first Potjie. Per Wiki: In South Africa, potjiekos (pronounced /ˈpɔɪkiːkɒs/), literally translated "small pot food", is a stew prepared outdoors in a traditional round,cast iron, three-legged pot (the potjie) which is found in the homes and villages of people throughout southern Africa.[1] The pot is heated efficiently using small amounts of wood, charcoal or if fuel is scarce, twisted grass or even dried animal dung.

Some friends from entomology pulled me into the fold and I was actually a part of the team (We were "Corein and the Foreigners"). As they have no faith in my potjie abilities, I was assigned the task of making the rice, which the potjie is ladled onto. The girl in the pink shirt is Gail, who has graciously offered to have me stay with her and her family at their farm in Namibia over break. The guy behind her is Henry, who has offered to go on a hike on the eastern coast through the jungles if I promise that I'll go (he's afraid I'm an American Flake). Notice all the bare feet...

Thursday, April 7, 2011

Man. I do not look cute in my Judo gi

Why didn't someone tell me I look like a potato in my gi? Here I'm helping a new guy (new to Judo, not martial arts) with learning a hold, and am bridging for my life. Did I get away? Natuurlik.
Here we're doing some Nage-waza (grappling) practice and this black belt (his name, as w/many people in Judo, is a mystery) has taught me a lot. Taught me to not trust him, as he chats to me to distract me or make me laugh while we're working. These are really great people at the club- I can't stress that enough.
The below picture on the right isn't just a terrible picture of me, it's the tail-end (get it?) of me doing a backwards roll while my arm is in an arm-bar (which is cool).

Below is at the beginning of class. It was a rare "light" day in which we didn't start things off with 50 minutes of heart thumping cardio. The club meets off campus at a gym facility off-campus, and while the University recognizes the Maties (us students) attend, it's mostly people from the community in the class (this is good). As you can see, the gym didn't used to be a gym. This building used to be a ballroom or something. After practice, which is twice a week, we end the hour and half practice by putting the mat away, heavy square by heavy square. Another part of life here, multi-function. It's not practical to have space reserved for just one club. The below right picture is of me with a fellow in a hold (I own his arms with my arm & a leg) and he was trying to get out of it by rolling me to my left. Unfortunately that just meant he ended up on his own neck, thus ending the waza with him choking himself.

A couple of weeks ago, a friend and I biked up to Jonkershoek. Readers may recall my having biked this before- a 7km trip largely up-hill. I made much better time this go around, partly due to my new adult sized bike. Once we got there we then entered JH and biked that 5km rock/sand jeep trail.
It was the most awful bike ride of my life-- until my gear situation got sorted out; then it was just really challenging. At the farthest end of the reserve we stopped and walked up a river a bit until we found a nice spot to swim (well, submerge) and make coffee. I'm posting a picture of Robert here to show the background. See, my picture (below) that had the background also has a wet shirt hanging in the frame. There were crabs in the river- lots, it turned out, all gunning for butt-cheeks and coffee grinds. Luckily, I'm rarely without a net these days and was able to catch and bother one. I like this guy, I think he's my spirit animal.
Once done, we biked the 5km back to the park reserve entrance then the 7km home. Next on the list is to do that all again on my own, and to then do some hiking to the waterfalls (see below).

Now, just this past weekend, I went back to JH and this time, hike ALL the way to the top.
I'm told it's the "real" 2nd waterfall, not the one casually referred to as the 2nd waterfall. To reach it, you have to climb up rock walls, with only your toe in a nook, or grabbing onto a tree and swinging from surface to surface.
In pictures like this, it's not the Fg=Gm1m2/r^2 that worries me, it's the p=mv. I can't wait to do it again, but it was definitely the scariest hike I've done so far.
When you finally get to the top, you're in a large, shallow body of water littered with small to large boulders and are still surrounded by immense rock walls, and actually, there's no waterfall. In another month or so when winter starts, so too will the rain, and it'll be a proper waterfall that I'm told will knock you on your ass as it freezes you solid. The water itself, I was pleased to find, is filled with varying species of tadpoles/frogs. They're fast though, and there are lots of places to hide. I did persevere.
Sadly, we were only able to spend about 10 minutes there, as the park gates closed shortly and we still had to hike all the way back. We ended up getting back to the gate at about 18:30, and had to wait for someone to drive up from town to let us out. Oops.
This below picture is just great, as it actually shows a bit, the perspective of the situation here in a way pictures usually don't.
This is a video upon arrival at the top. If you have a laptop, flip it -90 degrees. If you have a desktop, turn your head 90 degrees.

I also spent an afternoon in Newlands Forest, near Cape Town. It's a pop-up forest, and forests are very rare in this part of Africa, so it was great to see. Lots of fungi/moss and tall overhanging trees. Our tourguide was- no joke- a 90 something year old 40-year volunteer named "Pixie Littlewort." Our professor remarked, upon her forgetting a species name, that she had likely forgotten more than we'd ever learn. The forest exists in this fynbos region due to boulders that had settled here ages ago. They cause such a disturbance to the waterflow in the area, that the soil/water compositions are drastically different, and a forests can be supported. There was actual shade and moist soil- very neat to see, coming from Minnesota.
Also, I went to a wetland that for some reason, had a tame porcupine that stole my heart. They have no underlayer of fur, so it's just bare wrinkly skin and quills. He loved to be scratched all over. Thank you childhood being around them at zoos, so I knew how to handle him. No pictures though, as I had no idea he'd be there.

Last week I rented a car and took a mini road trip to Worcester (pronounced more like "Vooster") to stay a night with a
friend. Check out my room- though I should have taken it before I took stuff out of my bag. The whole house was very "African" in that everywhere you turned there was a dog running around and an open door leading to a beautiful sitting area. I FINALLY got some cuddly cat time- Tinkerbell, their tail-less cat slept on my lap for a long time. I needed that badly. Plus, there was a tree in the back yard swarming with insects (I've not yet reached my 150 for entomology). Yes, that's a mosquito net, and God no, it's not just for decoration. No screens on windows here in SA, just bars.
Funny thing about driving around. You go through tunnels that seem to be miles long as you go through mountains, and when you see hitch hikers up ahead, they often turn out to be baboons.
Anyway. We then did some beach camping-- yes, the beach is lined with barbed wire fence, as TIA then went to Crystal Pools again. I didn't take that last picture of dried seaweed, but hell, it was on my camera, so I can post it.
While swimming in the chilly water, I was not only almost sucked out to sea on several occasions, but also stung by a jellyfish. Not sure what kind, but now, 3 weeks later, I still have markings on my finger (yes, it hurt).

I've done several hikes with make-shift steps, but I'll NEVER like them.
I've got to start doing these more regularly again- these are monster blogs. Sorry, folks.